Fixing The Skullcandy Full Metal Jacket Earphone Jack (5 Wires)

This is my first time writing a tutorial article. I’m not that knowledgeable in repairing earphones so I will just try my best to show you how I repaired it. Hopefully you could get some info you need.

(Note: If your Skullcandy FMJ has 6 wires instead of 5, please read this article instead.)

I love my Skullcandy FMJ. It has good bass and shiny design. I use it on my Samsung YP-P2 and really love the sounds. However, there were two things I didn’t really like: the symmetrical cable (left ear cable is same length as right ear cable.) and the JACK.

(NOTE: I know there are people who like symmetrical cables and that’s OK too. It’s just that I tend to tug at symmetrical cables more often so for me, asymmetrical cables work better.)

Skullcandy FMJ’s jack is LONG, and when I put my MP3 player in my pocket and walk, the wire connected to the jack gets stressed and bended. Now my FMJ is broken, and I cannot hear any bass anymore.

I didn’t bother using the warranty since it’s my fault that my earphones got broken, and I wanted to do some tinkering too. I bought a pair of earphone jacks at a local hardware store, metal ones, for around It came in twos so I just bought it anyway thinking I have a spare in case I failed at my first attempt to solder.

I snipped off the end part of my earphones and threw the defective jack away.

The first thing I did was insert the spring and main body (sorry I don’t know what it’s called… can you tell me please?) into the cable. I won’t be able to assemble the whole jack if I solder first then inserted these things.

I tied a simple knot at the end to prevent these things from sliding off interfering with my work. I found 5 insulated wires and there were uninsulated copper strands around too.

Now I actually didn’t know which color is for which sound channel, so I tried to experiment by connecting the bare jack into my laptop, and used trial-and-error to determine the correct connections. I also researched through the Internet and found out some important things:

  • The jack with 2 black rings is a stereo jack, and it has 3 connections: ground, left channel and right channel.
  • Left channel is, if not most of the time, always the red wire.
  • In order to determine the wires for left and right channels, I must connect the ground wire to the jack first.
  • Not connecting the ground wire results in both left and right channels sounding off to either left or right ear only.

And after a few hours of tinkering (lol too long), I have this:

The wires are insulated with something, so for wires this thin, I had to burn the insulation off. I wrapped a strip of paper around the cord and exposed only the wires I wanted to burn. I then lighted these insulated wires with a match and the flame died as it reached the paper wrapping.

I carefully wiped the soot off the wires with tissue, twisted them and inserted them to the corresponding contact points.

Of course before I made permanent changes by soldering, I tested if the connections work by inserting the jack into the audio player, checking if the wires made contact cleanly and if the wires are connected to the correct channels. I also clamped the wire in place by using long-nosed pliers to save me some frustration if ever I accidentally tugged on the wire and the connections I made gets disconnected.

I also snipped the unknown wires (I have a hunch that those are for the microphone, but I did not want to use the mic so that’s fine with me) using whatever is available in my room– in this case my nail cutter.

Now I soldered the wires in place, and snipped the excess wires to prevent short-circuits.

Remember the spring and main body? The parts that I don’t know what they’re called? I assembled it now to the jack to cover the soldered parts. This metal jack had threads so I just screwed the jack in place.

And actually that’s it! I was pleased to be able to use my repaired Skullcandy earphones. I did not notice any difference in sound compared to when it was brand new (no static, no lower quality sound) so I was really happy.

Fixing The Skullcandy Full Metal Jacket Earphone Jack (5 Wires)

24 thoughts on “Fixing The Skullcandy Full Metal Jacket Earphone Jack (5 Wires)

  1. Bar says:


    Great guide man!
    Howcome you and me have the FMJ’s (mine’s black) and i have 6 wires??
    I lately mailed skullcandy for help about the wire’s meaning i’m still expecting the answer.
    But you just may be very helpful to me with those partial wire colors meaning.

    I will update back when i will have it done.

    btw these are the wires colors of my FMJ black (maybe it’s because it’s the 11mm driver or because it’s a newer version of it so we don’t have same wires.. idk):

    Blue & Copper Stripped
    Red & Copper Stripped

    1. semigeek says:

      I have no idea, sorry. Maybe you have a newer version and it has some enhancements, but really I don’t know.

      Also, I figured out that the red wire should go to the right channel. I think it was the standard color for the right channel in most audio devices. In my description above I said the blue wire goes into the right channel, and so today I have my earphones with inverted channels. I decided not to re-solder the wires and instead just wear the earphones with the left earpiece on my right ear and right earpiece on my left ear (way easier than soldering).

      Best of luck on your FMJ tinkering, and please let us know if you have more info I might have missed!

  2. Bar says:

    Well thanks i hope i will get a reply soon from SK, if i don’t receive one i will do like you, trial and error.
    So i will update soon with findings…

    I do believe that the red wire is L channel, because Left is always first in audio, and the green is for the R channel. If you would ask me i would say the wires goes the following:

    Red – L channel +
    Green – R channel +
    Blue – L&R channel – (ground)
    Red/Stripped – Mic’s +
    Blue/Stripped – Mic’s – (ground)
    Copper – mic’s related, i don’t have any clue except one – may be mic’s sending signal. If so than it’ll go for the mic’s + too.

    This is what i’m going to try if they won’t send my info today.

    Good day for all.

  3. Bar says:

    Hi again,

    So here’s the findings, after i did of course trial and error, because SK didn’t want to help me “they don’t have the wiring schematic” is what they’ve said, they just don’t want it to be published.

    So for the topic – here is everything you should know if you want to connect the earphones perfectly (with microphone too).
    so semigeek – you can add it to the guide for those who would search for it later (like i did), and want to fix their ear-buds with mic too. So please add it to the end of the guide as a second one, you can edit it as you want!

    (I will upload it in a minute in a separate comment..)

  4. Bar says:

    I’m sorry, i just found that the microphone connections are opposite and i confused the + and the –
    I just looked in the plug so the red wire is actually the ground connection and the loose copper is the microphone’s +
    Those wires can make you crazy, for real!

    Please fix it if you add the guide i wrote.

    1. Bar says:

      This is going to sound stupid:

      the last comment isn’t right. There’s been a confusion.
      Those wires are really confusing!

      So – now confirmed as i finally finished this whole thing, and everything works perfect!

      The RED wire is the MIC’s +
      And the loose COPPER is the MIC’s – (ground)

      that’s it just ignore the last comment.

      And if you can SemiGeek, please remove this post and the previous one because they are wrong and unnecessary.

      Thank you!

  5. Catalin says:

    on my SKULLKANDY model: INK’D with Microphone

    /-\_|—|—|—| |
    | |—|—|—| |
    \-/¯|—|—|—| |
    | | | | |————–|
    | | | |__white
    | | |
    blue | green &copper

  6. Catalin says:

    SKULLKANDY model: INK’D with Microphone

    <–|–|–|–|| jack 3.5 with 4 pins
    blue | red | green&copper | white(covering)

    1. Bar says:

      You can try this if you want to fix it, i do believe those are the right connections:

      blue – Ground (for all the channels)
      red – Right channel
      green w/ copper twist – Left channel
      white – Microphone channel

      99% this is right.
      Hope its helpful :}

  7. Mine is the one with 6 wires, as far as I live in Brazil, I did not find the TRRS plug, so I used the standard one, the colors were identical to the one with 5 wires, I just joined the two separated grounds which are the blue and the blue/copper twist, the rest is identical to the one with 5 wires 🙂

    Thank you, you helped me a lot 🙂

  8. Hey,
    Thank you for great DIY guide. Just a quick question: can you recommend brand of the headphone jack or online store where i can buy it. Checked local stores but having troubles to found replacement jack with 5 wires witch i planning to use for repair my Bowers&Wikins

    1. jayrobledo says:

      Thank you. Unfortunately I do not have any specific brand that I can recommend since I just bought a generic brand from the hardware store and I’m fine with it.

    1. jayrobledo says:

      I’m not really sure but I think there is no separate wire for the bass; the separation of the signals for bass and other frequencies happens at the earpieces themselves. But I’m really unsure.

  9. Hey buddy
    Thank you soo much!! I was literally gonna chuck my broken headphones into the dustbin. Your article saved a heck lot of time and money.
    Great work man. Appreciate it.

  10. Netflame says:

    Just an update

    With the cost of nearly the whole cable of my skull candy ink’ed I found out the connections for all the cables. Connected to a TRRRS 3.5 mm audio jack.

    Red (enclosed in copper) – Mic +
    Copper – Mic –
    Red + Copper (stripped) – Ground (for both left and right channels)
    Blue – Right Channel
    Green – Left Channel

    For connections with white,

    Red – Mic +
    Green – Ground
    Copper – Right
    Blue – Left

  11. bala says:

    Guys….. In my skull candy INK’D headsets, I’ve soldered the wires to the respective channels (ie) pin in the jack. Both the speakers are working perfectly but i can’t get the surround effect! I don’t know why. Can anyone help me….

  12. scatterfausth says:

    Hey , guys , if anyone is in here , can please help me , mi headphones are an ink’d 2.0 the original tip i lost , and i have Trrs , the tip with two black rings , im trying to atach te wires to that ,

    I was trying by i do now maybe 4 hours to fixit but i cant barely the sorrounding an the left Channel works but the right no work , in bot sides i hear the music like the left side , if anyone can gave me any idea if would be helpful

    The wires are
    Red/Cooper twisted
    And one Cooper protected by a red protection and one cooper has comes with the copper red protected , thanks for attention .

      1. Lone Wolf says:

        My headphones have the same wires as you and am facing the same problem. Surround/Bass is low on one side… Plz can you tell me how did you fix it??

  13. Steve says:

    I have a pair of FMJ and the sound stopped in left earbud. I cut off the connector and had 6 wires (1) red wrapped in (2) bare copper (3) red striped (4) blue striped (5) blue (6) green. These colors didn’t line up with the above posts but after some testing I figured it out.

    Red = is mic +
    bare copper = mic –
    Red striped = right channel +
    blue striped = right channel –
    green = Left channel +
    blue = left channel –

    So the striped is a pair, the solid colors are a pair and the mic pair is wrapped together. Very confusing as compared to the different patterns listed above in this thread. But I used the connector below (which was very finicky but good quality) and got the earbuds and mic working again – no loss in sound quality (my opinion, not tested) so I’m assuming I have the + & – correct. Hope this helps.
    be careful with this connector b/c 1 through 4 on plug are not in the same order as 1-4 on the terminals.

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