Fixing The Skullcandy Full Metal Jacket Earphone Jack (5 Wires)
This is my first time writing a tutorial article. I’m not that knowledgeable in repairing earphones so I will just try my best to show you how I repaired it. Hopefully you could get some info you need.
(Note: If your Skullcandy FMJ has 6 wires instead of 5, please read this article instead.)
I love my Skullcandy FMJ. It has good bass and shiny design. I use it on my Samsung YP-P2 and really love the sounds. However, there were two things I didn’t really like: the symmetrical cable (left ear cable is same length as right ear cable.) and the JACK.
(NOTE: I know there are people who like symmetrical cables and that’s OK too. It’s just that I tend to tug at symmetrical cables more often so for me, asymmetrical cables work better.)
Now Skullcandy FMJ’s jack is LONG, and when I put my MP3 player in my pocket and walk, the wire connected to the jack gets stressed and bended. Now my FMJ is broken, and I cannot hear any bass anymore.
I didn’t bother using the warranty since it’s my fault that my earphones got broken, and I wanted to do some tinkering too. I bought a pair of earphone jacks at a local hardware store, metal ones, for around $1.00. It came in twos so I just bought it anyway thinking I have a spare in case I failed at my first attempt to solder.
I snipped off the end part of my earphones and threw the defective jack away.
The first thing I did was insert the spring and main body (sorry I don’t know what it’s called… can you tell me please?) into the cable. I won’t be able to assemble the whole jack if I solder first then inserted these things.
I tied a simple knot at the end to prevent these things from sliding off interfering with my work. I found 5 insulated wires and there were uninsulated copper strands around too.
Now I actually didn’t know which color is for which sound channel, so I tried to experiment by connecting the bare jack into my laptop, and used trial-and-error to determine the correct connections. I also researched through the Internet and found out some important things:
- The jack with 2 black rings is a stereo jack, and it has 3 connections: ground, left channel and right channel.
- Left channel is, if not most of the time, always the red wire.
- In order to determine the wires for left and right channels, I must connect the ground wire to the jack first.
- Not connecting the ground wire results in both left and right channels sounding off to either left or right ear only.
And after a few hours of tinkering (lol too long), I have this:
The wires are insulated with something, so for wires this thin, I had to burn the insulation off. I wrapped a strip of paper around the cord and exposed only the wires I wanted to burn. I then lighted these insulated wires with a match and the flame died as it reached the paper wrapping.
I carefully wiped the soot off the wires with tissue, twisted them and inserted them to the corresponding contact points.
Of course before I made permanent changes by soldering, I tested if the connections work by inserting the jack into the audio player, checking if the wires made contact cleanly and if the wires are connected to the correct channels. I also clamped the wire in place by using long-nosed pliers to save me some frustration if ever I accidentally tugged on the wire and the connections I made gets disconnected.
I also snipped the unknown wires (I have a hunch that those are for the microphone, but I did not want to use the mic so that’s fine with me) using whatever is available in my room– in this case my nail cutter.
Now I soldered the wires in place, and snipped the excess wires to prevent short-circuits.
Remember the spring and main body? The parts that I don’t know what they’re called? I assembled it now to the jack to cover the soldered parts. This metal jack had threads so I just screwed the jack in place.
And actually that’s it! I was pleased to be able to use my repaired Skullcandy earphones. I did not notice any difference in sound compared to when it was brand new (no static, no lower quality sound) so I was really happy.
Hi,
Great guide man!
Howcome you and me have the FMJ’s (mine’s black) and i have 6 wires??
I lately mailed skullcandy for help about the wire’s meaning i’m still expecting the answer.
But you just may be very helpful to me with those partial wire colors meaning.
I will update back when i will have it done.
btw these are the wires colors of my FMJ black (maybe it’s because it’s the 11mm driver or because it’s a newer version of it so we don’t have same wires.. idk):
Blue
Blue & Copper Stripped
Red
Red & Copper Stripped
Green
Copper
I have no idea, sorry. Maybe you have a newer version and it has some enhancements, but really I don’t know.
Also, I figured out that the red wire should go to the right channel. I think it was the standard color for the right channel in most audio devices. In my description above I said the blue wire goes into the right channel, and so today I have my earphones with inverted channels. I decided not to re-solder the wires and instead just wear the earphones with the left earpiece on my right ear and right earpiece on my left ear (way easier than soldering).
Best of luck on your FMJ tinkering, and please let us know if you have more info I might have missed!
Well thanks i hope i will get a reply soon from SK, if i don’t receive one i will do like you, trial and error.
So i will update soon with findings…
I do believe that the red wire is L channel, because Left is always first in audio, and the green is for the R channel. If you would ask me i would say the wires goes the following:
Red – L channel +
Green – R channel +
Blue – L&R channel – (ground)
Red/Stripped – Mic’s +
Blue/Stripped – Mic’s – (ground)
Copper – mic’s related, i don’t have any clue except one – may be mic’s sending signal. If so than it’ll go for the mic’s + too.
This is what i’m going to try if they won’t send my info today.
Good day for all.
Hi again,
So here’s the findings, after i did of course trial and error, because SK didn’t want to help me “they don’t have the wiring schematic” is what they’ve said, they just don’t want it to be published.
So for the topic – here is everything you should know if you want to connect the earphones perfectly (with microphone too).
so semigeek – you can add it to the guide for those who would search for it later (like i did), and want to fix their ear-buds with mic too. So please add it to the end of the guide as a second one, you can edit it as you want!
(I will upload it in a minute in a separate comment..)
I’m sorry, i just found that the microphone connections are opposite and i confused the + and the -
I just looked in the plug so the red wire is actually the ground connection and the loose copper is the microphone’s +
Those wires can make you crazy, for real!
Please fix it if you add the guide i wrote.
This is going to sound stupid:
the last comment isn’t right. There’s been a confusion.
Those wires are really confusing!
So – now confirmed as i finally finished this whole thing, and everything works perfect!
The RED wire is the MIC’s +
And the loose COPPER is the MIC’s – (ground)
that’s it just ignore the last comment.
And if you can SemiGeek, please remove this post and the previous one because they are wrong and unnecessary.
Thank you!
on my SKULLKANDY model: INK’D with Microphone
|————–|
/-\_|—|—|—| |
| |—|—|—| |
\-/¯|—|—|—| |
| | | | |————–|
| | | |__white
| | |
blue | green &copper
|
red
SKULLKANDY model: INK’D with Microphone
<–|–|–|–|| jack 3.5 with 4 pins
blue | red | green&copper | white(covering)
You can try this if you want to fix it, i do believe those are the right connections:
blue – Ground (for all the channels)
red – Right channel
green w/ copper twist – Left channel
white – Microphone channel
99% this is right.
Hope its helpful :}
Bar.
Massive thank you! Great tutorial with perfect pictures.